Let’s see, it must have been in 2002. I began doing repairs around late 97, in 01 I replaced the AT case and PSU for an ATX case/PSU (as the Mobo allowed either kind). Then in 2002 I ordered a Mobo with integrated CPU (ECS K7SEM), that’s when I pretty much made it my own. I gave it to my sis when she got married, then years after I visited them and saw it there just collecting dust and asked for it back. It is my Win98 rig, besides gaming I also use it for scanning docs and pics with my trusty Canon N640pEx.

The first PC I assembled (mid 03) buying everything had a huge (like 5 bays I think) white ATX case, it had a Biostar M7VKQ mobo with an a Athlon XP 2100 CPU, 256MB PC133 ram, a KWorld capture card (which I still have in storage) a Sound Blaster Live 5.1 Mp3 (which I’m using on the K7SEM) and a Sis based 32MB PCI video card. I I was totally free, no longer I had to share the “house PC”. The HDD was a 40gb one, which at the time it was plentiful for my gaming, development and video capture / editing / DVD riping. Sadly, less than a year after, my father died and I had to sell it to help with the ensuing financial difficulties (I was an entry level IT tech at the time).

Some background first: It was with DOS that I began using computers, a Tek 8088 was my first PC, then we moved onto a Tandy 1000 TL2 then onto an HP Vectra VL2 486/66. On the Vectra is where I began using Windows.

With this project I pretend to recreate some of those experiences. I had some old components laying around, others, like the case and the 5.25″-3.5″ bracket adapter I bought new and this is what I came up with.

“The way I see it, if you’re gonna build a time machine into a PC, why not do it with some style?”

These are the specs:

Mobo: WS440BX Gateway Tabor 3
CPU: Pentium II Klamath 233 @ 133 Mhz
Ram: 64MB PC133
HDD: WD AC14300 4.3 GB
CD: GCR8481B
Video: Nvidia TNT 16MB AGP 2x
LAN: 3Com 3C905-TX
Sound: Soundblaster Pro 2 CT1600

Everything was coming along nicely, until, I realized the PSU placement was far from ideal:

Ouch. Never had this problem in my career. A quick search on the internets showed the problem is more common than I thought, even with modern hardware. I was able to find a local vendor who was selling an ATX 24 pin to ATX 20 pin converter, it even had the white cable for some reason (not that I’m complaining). Just a little help and I was back in business:

I was going to use an IDE to CF adapter, but then remembered part of the experience back in the day was that HDD noise, so I went for the oldest specimen I had.

The FDISK operations went fine, I removed the existing partition then created 2 partitions.

It was when I tried to format drive C: that it made that “clank clank” noise of death and format gave an error. Fearing the worst, still, I rebooted and this time tried to format drive D: which worked fine. I tried again to format drive C: and this time it went through. So I went ahead and proceeded with DOS installation, so far so good.

With DOS 6.22 up and running I went ahead and installed Win 3.11

Riva TNT Drivers installed. 1024×768 and 256 colors to keep that retro feel.

Sound card drivers, no problemo

The Sound Blaster Pro 2 CT1600 is an awesome card, (not pictured) I was playing some Gabriel Knight, simply outstanding.

Some of the games from my 8088 games also work fine

I’m pending to get the network card working.

There are a number of things that happened this year to reflect on.   One of them being my knee injury, my gf leaving me after knowing I ‘d require surgery (even had marriage plans for October). Instead of bringing me down, I  think that just made me stronger. With friends, family  and my leaders support, I explored my  options went with therapy and here I am, walking again, Standing in line again,, doing stuff I was able to do before (like installing that ceiling fan). I know I can do more, so here’s for a more productive year.

Atari 8-bit power supplies

I rather be redundant and list one more time the different kinds of Atari 8 bit computer power supplies:

C061982 ‘The White Brick’ (Upper left) 1.5A very reliable, rare
C061982 ‘The Black Brick’ (Lower Left) 1.5A very reliable, rare
C061982 ‘The Ingot’ (Center Top) 1.5A (POOP)
C061982 ‘The Box’ (Top Right) 1.5A very reliable
C70042-011 ‘The Mini’ (the one on top of the Black Brick) 1A shipped with most XEGS systems (POOP)
C70042-01 ‘The Logo’ (Bottom Right) 1A very reliable

When the poopie ones fail, they’ll take ICs with them. AVOID them at all costs. The only usable part on those would be the 7 pin connector.

A modern regulated 5V 1A+ power supply can be converted for use on an Atari computer but I’ll discuss that on another post.

This past July 22nd, 2016 SEGA celebrated the 25 years of Sonic the Hedgehog with an official party at the House of Blues during the San Diego Comic-con. Although I consider myself a big SEGA and Sonic fan, sadly I was unable to attend the party due to financial and scheduling reasons (mostly financial lol). For those who were able to attend, they were treated to special guests, exclusive 25th Anniversary merchandise and musical performances by Crush 40 and Hyper Potions.

Included in the swag bag are the following:

– Sonic the Hedgehog 25th Anniversary bag
– Sonic the Hedgehog 25th Anniversary coin
– Sonic the Hedgehog 25th Anniversary USB thumb stick
– Sonic: Mega Drive #1 variant comic
– Sonic the Hedgehog 25th Anniversary New Era Hat
– Sonic Plushie
– Totinos hat

Hope you guys enjoyed the share! Would love to know if any of you were able to attend the Sonic the Hedgehog 25th Anniversary party at SDCC. Feel free to share your love for SEGA, Sonic and any special moments from the event. As always, game on brothers and sisters!

On my Slim PS2 everything works but PS1 games loaded via PSXLauncher (my imports for example). As I don’t have a PS1 at the moment, using component with my PS2 will be a no go for me. The issue with PSXLauncher and using a component cable is that the colors are wrong and the image is too bright, it looks horrible.
The other thing is, unlike with the Xbox, I didn’t notice much improvement over composite, so I’ll just keep using composite.
This may be useful for some. I just found out how to make my original Xbox work with the component cable and my Toshiba CRT. The problem I had was, after the boot up sequence which displayed fine, I’d get diagonal video at the EvoX dashboard. That was because the XBox was throwing 480p video to a TV that only takes 480i.
It was as simple as launching the MS dashboard (my first option in EvoX) and going to the video settings. Just tell the Xbox you don’t have a 480p or 720p capable display. The MS Dashboard displays video in 480i to keep thing compatible. After resetting the Xbox, Evox and everything else worked just fine. The 480p/720p/1080i options don’t show up in settings unless the component cable is hooked up.
A huge improvement in video quality over composite. From what I’ve read if you’re already using S-Video on a CRT you won’t notice much improvement if you go the component route.
I’ve had this device for two weeks and I absolutely love it. This replaces a personal Note 2 and my work S4. I can do without a replaceable battery but a removable SD is a must. Everything looks, well, big, but does not compromise in quality. The second screen notifications are a blessing, I dont get interrupted while composing an email, checking the calendar, working with the terminal emulator, relaxing watching the tube, etc

Everything works super fast, I can use it with one hand (I have big hands).

On the downside it is not “scene” friendly. Still with some work it can be rooted and Xpossed can be installed. Custom roms cannot be installed unless you posses the US T-Mobile version or the European H960A (except France). Given the unique qualities of this phone I wouldn’t advice installing a custom rom anyways.

Battery life is great if you are on Android 5.1.1, with a fresh installation of Marshmallow the battery still drained quickly.

Lately I’ve been tinkering with my Nintendo Wii (you may have heard of it). In order to play newer stuff it is necessary to update some cIOS. 

Otherwise, at the very least you’ll get a black screen, or if the game loads it may not be fully functional. I had this issue where Rodea the Sky Soldier would reboot all the way back to the system menu when I tried to change the in game language. And the voice would remain in english (bleajh).

At the very least cIOS 249 and 250 need to be updated with the d2x cIOS. Use the beta 53 if you want better usb support, use the beta 52 if you want better emunand support. This is how I allocated the cIOS: 

cios 247 base 37 
cios 248 base 38 
cios 249 base 56
cios 250 base 57
cios 251 base 58

Regarding cIOS 236, it seems it is no longer needed, still it doesn’t hurt to (re)install it. Just make sure you use the “mod” or “pro pirate” version of the installer. If you use the regular one make sure to press “2” especially if your dvd drive is hosed.

Other things I did were update the homebrew channel from 1.1.0 to 1.1.2, install Boomii as IOS (no vulnerable “boot1”), install Priiloader and update USB Loader GX (especially for its superb Nintendont integration).

Selecting the cIOS 250 Rodea now allowed me to change the language, and other black screen games now load. 

All in all, the Wii is a great machine and homebrew development still seems to be going strong. It is my go to emulation machine for pretty much everything (but arcade). Component video is a delight on a CRT, almost as good as RGB.

Well, that’s it for now.