Got a few presents for the love of my life. So far I replaced the DIC and the plugs. The old DIC had melted tips and who knows if it was ever replaced before. I tried a chinese knockoff before with horrendous results, so this time I pulled the trigger and got the Saab original part from esaabparts.

As per sparkplugs I got what Saab offered back then as an option for “hard driving”, the NGK PFR7H-10. So far this morning going to work it ran great 🙂 Thanks to the Saabnet member who documented the sparkplugs on this post

Couple weeks ago I changed the oil and filter using Royal Purple 5w-30 and a K&N filter. I’m pending to swap the air filter.

I intend to replace the headlight tonight, I’ll make sure to post before / after pictures.

The Krzysiocart is a flashcart made primarily for the famiclone consoles. It also works on most famicom compatible hardware.

It was developed by Krzysiobal a Polish developer who was inspired by the Pegasus a famiclone popular in Poland.

It all began as a project for his tesis, then worked on ministurizing it until he got to the product he is now selling.

It is a small one man operation, you contact this guy via eail, ask for payment details, send the money then he ships it very quickly. Price is $55 USD shipped to the US. Besides the flashcart, a 4GB microsd and usb adapter are also included.

I tried it on the AVS and on a NOAC Famiclone console (SY-700) and it worked fine on both consoles.

The interface is simple, look for your file, press A then your game boots.

When you place the cursor on a rom file, at the bottom a message tells you if the rom is compatible or not.

The creator’s goal is to make a device capable of running most famiclone games at an affordable price. That said, here are some notes:

  • dbelec cannot “complain” about incompatible voltages. The creator took special care to protect both the device and the console.
  • Battery backup (sram) doesn’t work at all. Games like Kirby and Zelda run fine but won’t save progress on a file like they do on an Everdrive or a Powerpak.
  • A number of gamesare just not compatible. Like mentioned before you’ll see if a game is not compatible on the menu. Examples of incompatible games are Goal 2, Japanese and American Castlevania 3, Mike Tyson’s Punch Out, unlicensed games, etc.
  • Contra 100 in 1 works. Haven’t tried 168 in 1.
  • It doesn’t sort files, you have to use a utility like Fat32 sorter.
  • It works on the AVS, however, after pressing reset it doesn’t go back to the main menu, it only resets the game loaded in memory. You have to turn off the console to return to the rom selection screen.
  • It is a tad slow to load even small size roms. While you wait you’re treated to a color changing screen.
For what t is and for the price I can’t complain, it works great and still you can run a great selection of games. You can still have a lot of fun.
Archive photo

Archive photo

 

Last night I performed the maintenance on my 2013 Versa. I didn’t take it to the dealer for the first time in its 5+ years. According to the schedule I was supposed to take it for an oil change next month. Also since I don’t drive it that much the scheduled work corresponds to 90000 km though it only has less than 80000 km.

Oil pan bolt was a pain to remove but nothing some penetrating oil and a little force couldn’t fix. The Oil filter was the real pain to remove, even with the screwdriver trick, it wasn’t until I found a better leverage point from the top of the engine that it budged.

Items used for this work:

  • Valvoline Synpower 5w-30 full synthetic oil
  • Bosch 3300 Premium oil filter

And that’s the thing I like the most about doing it myself, I know for sure what’s going in there.

The parts arrived, this is how the left turn signal looks now

Compared to before:

Also got a new engine oil dipstick, and as I suspected the new one is a bit longer:

Also, finally got around replacing the fuel filter, it was easier than I thought, this is the right part in case you’re interested https://amzn.to/2tIuuvt

The 17 mm banjo bolt came out with some effort, but for the 19 mm I had to use penetrating oil and let it sit for a few minutes, then still had to fight it a little bit. The clamp is held in place by a T25 screw and the plastic cover by two 10 mm nuts.

 

Recently (April 4th) I did something I wanted to do for a long time, and that was buy another car. I saw her at the company parking lot and I guess it was love at first sight. I looked for the owner,  inquired about the car, did a test drive and placed an offer. Well, that’s not how the story ended. After that I decided to explore the Facebook marketplace and looked at other cars. I test drove a 79 Malibu and a 79 Fairmont, they din’t convinced me or I was convinced of how much of a death trap (for others) that kind of cars could be. At the time the Saab owner sent a message telling me he was willing to go a bit lower on the price, so I went with the Saab.

Here’s a picture of her:

I’m really enjoying working on her, so far this is what I’ve done:

  • Oil and filter change
  • Sparkplugs change
  • Hood strut
  • Trunk lifts
  • Coolant hose (URO Part # 9178849)
  • Air Filter (Mann C31122)
  • Airbox, MAF, intake hose cleaning
  • Fixed parasitic current draw by removing the stock HU
  • Head unit and speakers replacement (used this VW harness Metra 70-1784)

Work performed at the local shop

Pending work to do:

  • Fuel filter
  • Brake pads
  • PCV valve

Since what I listen to most is alternative rock and speed metal I don’t require a huge sub woofer, what I require is to isolate the low frequency signal. The JVC KWAV61BT allows precisely for that. Just hook up this baby into the dedicated sub woofer output then Bob’s your uncle.  Polks will now only deal with mids and highs.

I installed it on my 2013 Versa, it is placed on the passenger side below the glove box area. It doesn’t draw much current so I tapped from a spare 20 amp acc fuse.

 

Sounds great for alternative rock and speed metal. Here’s a sample:

 

Product Link: http://amzn.to/2D9gtuh

I finally removed the center console from my 2013 Versa sedan in order to do some work.

The service manual instructions are misleading, you should first remove the piece below the AC controls then you can remove the center console.

I couldn’t find the shifter bulb, and I didn’t remove the ipod harness (too much trouble untangling everything).

Using screws I properly fitted a center console compartment. Previously I was using a piece of cloth to keep it in place.

I fitted a usb port in a similar fashion as the newer models. I added an inverter with extra USB port. I’m thinking of adding a videogame console later on.

It may not look like a lot but it was a good learning experience. Now I don’t have to reach all the way to the back to remove a usb drive and the center box is now securely attached and folks can use it as armrest.

Here are some pics in no particular order:

 

So after my last battery began dying on me I decided to pull the trigger and get an (expensive) Optima battery.

According to the maker website the SKU compatible with my car (2013 Nissan Versa) is the D51R. Went to my local Autozone and that’s what I asked for.

Everything seems premium about this battery’s construction. My only gripe is the battery is smaller than a regular battery so either you have to order the spacer or get creative to secure it in place. This is what I’m talking about:

For now I just got a bit creative (forgot to take a picture of it), not satisfied but will have to do until either I get the spacer or make my own definitive solution. I used a curtain bracket, the factory screw fits on the bracket hole, I just had to bend it a bit to secure the battery in place.

Removing the old battery was easy. Placing the new one and hooking it up was also easy. Securing it with the materials I had on hand, not so much.

With the battery in place I went for a test drive. I don’t know if its because of the smaller battery but the car feels lighter. The AC feels colder, the stereo sounds more powerful and cleaner, the cellphone charger keeps up better with my cellphone (I use it for dvr and obdii functions), the lights are brighter and the horn (aftermarket Wolo) is louder and doesn’t sound distorted anymore.

Update 08/12/17

I came up with something a bit better, though still not satisfied.

Wood is pretty good absorbing vibration.

On another note, battery gets pretty hot on this 100+ weather (38+ C). We’ll see if it’s true it can be used on the Baja.


 

The old LTH battery was a good battery, I think it only lasted two years because of the intense driving conditions experienced this very spring/summer. I use slightly more crap than the typical driver: OBDII dongle, cellphone charger and non stock head unit (haven’t installed the amplifier yet) and bi xenon head lamps. Temperatures surpassing 100 F even at night (and off course I also have to crank up the AC). In addition to that roads in the town of Apodaca are not that friendly to say the least and local government makes things more difficult every day. Things can get a bit bumpy:

 

Basically, because it “just works”. If you’re an individual or small business operation using Windows 7 just stick to it until the very end.

As to how do I know it is rock solid, it is because I’m lucky enough to work for a company that has VL agreement that includes it. Members of the corporate IT dept didn’t know about it till I mentioned it. Then they checked with the MS partner then sure enough it’s covered. It’ll be used on new hardware (Kaby Lake based) from now on.

I’ve been testing it since last year, very stable, every single piece of company software I’ve thrown at it works.  You can make it as “barebones” (like in the factory floor) or as feature rich as you want (eg an Office CAD workstation).

You can also install utilities like O&O Shutup 10 and Spy Anti-Beacon if you want to feel a little bit more secure about telemetry.

This is a comment I saw at the Spiceworks forums that further expands on the topic:

“To address why obtaining Windows 10 Long Term Servicing Branch isn’t easy, it is because Microsoft has decided that they were not making enough money with the old Windows 7 design. And LTSB is effectively what Windows 7 used to be. Like windows 7, it does not get new features every couple months, but is just a rock solid dependable operating system without unnecessary bells and whistles.

LTSB is an excellent choice if you are a health care device manufacturer and you need a modern Windows platform that is licensed to operate a patient ultrasound scanner.

The new Windows 10 consumer/education/small-biz model is to probe and analyze customers and use that for marketing purposes, to promote Microsoft’s products, and to make buying and installing software in Windows 10 easier for the “iphone App” generation. Cortana vacuums up everything you say to it to build a personality and interest profile of you, and Edge records every search, and Windows 10 itself monitors keystrokes to track everything you do. All for the marketers to more accurately sell to you.

It is a complete joke for Windows 10 “Education edition” to include Candy Crush and XBox on the start menu. It’s almost as if Microsoft sees schools not as a place to learn, but as a place to market their App Store sales to kids.

And the 18 month feature release cycle allows Microsoft to completely rewrite how the OS works to throw all your careful restrictive initial planning to disable XBox and Candy Crush out the window. 1511 nags at you when you choose Google Chrome as your default browser over Edge, where earlier Windows 10 didn’t do that, all to help Microsoft try to regain market dominance.

Windows 10 LTSB disables all that. It only does the same few specific things it did when it was shipped, and it only gets security updates. It doesn’t generate as much marketing and data mining revenue on the backside for Microsoft, and because of that, they want to make obtaining it as difficult and restricted as possible, because LTSB robs them of that.

So, it is sold only to deep-pocketed customers who are already spending thousands to tens of thousands up front on volume licensing and the double-licensing for volume licenses that Microsoft requires. (The system must come with an OEM/retail Windows license/key that is not used, and volume licensing is purchased separate on top of that cost.)”